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Watsons Bay

September 8th, 1999 No comments

I got off the ferry once more, this time at Darling Harbor, much closer to downtown. It dumped us off right in front of the Sydney Aquarium, so I went in for a look. It was your typical aquarium at first, lots of little tanks full of various fish, though naturally ones native to Australian environments. But then I found the Oceanarium, which is much more impressive. You walk through a clear plastic hallway with an barrel vault ceiling– essentially a clear tube — over which an enormous tank has been built. Sharks and manta rays glide above your head as fish school past you. It was superb. The Aquarium also contained samples of living coral reefs, and it is so colorful and alien I’m dying to see this in person. Only a little while longer, farther north…

Schools of fish and a few sharks inhabit the Oceanarium of the Sydney Aquarium.

I now plan to depart Sydney tomorrow morning, heading for Brisbane. I’d like to go by bus if it’s practical, because I think I’ll get a better sense of scale than I would in an airplane. Still need to figure out the details. I love this absolute freedom I have, ephemeral though it is.

Watsons Bay

September 8th, 1999 No comments

I am being entertained well. I took the train to the Circular Quay (pronounced “key”), the place downtown from which the harbor ferries depart. The ferries are an excellent way to explore the larger area because they make regular stops at many places all over the Sydney harbor. I got off at Watsons Bay. It didn’t seem that interesting at first, and I really got off just to get off the ferry more than any other reason. But I’m glad I did now. It’s one place where you can easily get from inside the harbor to the ocean shore on foot; it’s a quick climb up a hill to the cliffs facing the ocean. I walked up to the highest point on this hillside, called “The Gap”, which parenthetically happens to be the favorite suicide spot of Sydney. The cliffs facing the ocean are high.

The Pacific Ocean crashing into the cliffs of the Gap.

The ocean smashes into the cliffs dramatically. Turning around, I get a grand view of the distant Sydney skyline. The path to this point was built over large rock formations. I noticed weird chunks of asphalt and concrete as I climbed up. Then I found a sign that explained why. The Gap used to be part of a military base that was decommissioned in 1981. When it was decommissioned, things too expensive or too pointless to move, such as building foundations, small bunkers, and parking lots, were left behind. Domesticated plants in gardens became wild. I found old rusty chunks of artillery and random unidentifiable metals. It was really strange, it felt like I had discovered ruins of a lost civilization, like walking amidst the Parthenon. It had a strangely mystical quality. An old gun turret looked more like a small amphitheater with a central altar. Two foot tall walls with embedded iron rings were to be found in odd places. I took many pictures, but I fear they won’t convey the magic.

The Sydney skyline as seen from Watsons Bay.

I’ve found a nice seafood restaurant overlooking Watsons Bay to eat lunch. The view of the Sydney skyline from here is excellent and the scallops are tasty. An elderly couple not far from me is drinking beer with their lunch. The ferry is due to pickup in about 45 minutes. I’m very glad I stopped here. I almost decided to skip it! I had a little chat with the waitress, who recommended that I visit Dunk Island, north of the Whitsunday Islands. I chatted also with a few fishermen who fish off the wharf. People are amazingly friendly here. But they can sometimes have problems with my incomprehensible American accent.

William’s on Williams (Kings Cross)

September 8th, 1999 No comments

After I left the Opera House, I took a different, more direct walk back to Kings Cross through Woolloomooloo, around the wharf. This is a deserted, spooky place. Someone had developed some expensive looking condos along the wharf, but the architecture was chillingly inhuman. A naval warship was docked to the wharf and the sailors eyed me suspiciously.

It wasn’t really very late in the day when I found myself back at the hostel. I had walked several miles and was ready to rest, so I hung out in the lobby (living room?) of the hostel. I noticed two girls playing the antique Ms. Pac Man machine. I challenged one of them to a game, and won, as well as sextupling the tiny high score. After the game we got to talking. Their names are Mette (pronounced ‘metah’) and Daniela, hailing from Denmark. Both are nice girls and pretty cute too. Mette taught me to play backgammon, and I won that as well, really just beginner’s luck in this case. They both came to Australia to learn to be surgical veterinarians. They showed me pictures they had taken of each other operating on animals, which struck me as humorously grisly. Neither have seen America and they were curious about it.

A third girl joined us: Michelle from Ireland. She’s quite a wildcat, I soon learned. We struck it off pretty well. She, like Mette and Daniela, is here on a working visa for an extended period. The vast majority of people in the hostel have this kind of arrangement, and are citizens of the five countries for which it’s most easy to get an Australian working visa: Ireland, Britain, Denmark, Holland, and Sweden. Because of this they tend to be working during the day and not available to actually do anything. But at night they can come alive if they want to. Often they seem to like watching TV, but when it gets late enough they are far from averse to heading to the bars. That’s how Michelle is. She invited me to head over to O’Malley’s with her that night. This is a popular Irish pub about four blocks away. Two other Irish girls joined us, but left after only one drink. (Oddly, I saw one of these girls again when I got to Cairns, thousands of kilometers away. She was staying at the same hostel as I was too. Strange.) We talked and danced and drank for hours. But after a while the beer was really making me nauseous. I was drinking Victoria Bitter, the local cheap brand. I doesn’t taste bad but after three or four pints I was feeling ill. And I thought, “What’s wrong with me?” I could not keep up with Michelle at all, she was drinking me under the table! Wondering if it was the beer, I switched to rum and coke. In a last ditch effort to keep up, I slammed the last of the drink. That was a bad move. I suddenly felt the vestibular canals spinning, and I raced to the bathroom. So the evening included an unscheduled worship at the porcelain altar. I’m still baffled by the whole situation. Four beers and a mixed drink? Not even a good start! It’s puzzling, because I almost never throw up from booze; the only other time it happened was at a bachelor party in Chicago, years ago, and then I had had much more to drink. Anyway, we went back to the hostel, though on the way she wanted to call her mom in Cork. She gave me her email and a few quick kisses before we parted ways. She wants to move to Bondi Beach in a few days, possibly tomorrow.

You win the stuffed koala if you guess what this is.

So I tried to go to bed, only to find someone else was using it! I was too tired and sick to find out why, or to deal with the situation at all, so I just laid down on the floor and dozed off. I woke up later and realized one of the other bunks was unoccupied, so I took it, hoping no one would come back later still and have the same reaction I had just had earlier. Still not sure what happened, probably a booking mistake. Or someone was too dumb to notice that their bed was in the wrong place. I don’t really know, or even care particularly. After I woke up I came here to eat breakfast and to rehydrate myself. You get a huge breakfast (two eggs, pile of bacon, two pieces of toast) for A$3, ice water for the hangover no charge. An unheard of value by my standards. The butter is really butter, but the egg yolks are a disturbing bright orange. All that mattered was that it filled me up.

That brings us to today. Likely this will be my last full day in Sydney. I plan to take the harbor ferry to explore the extent of Sydney Harbor. I have some random observations I’d like to tack on to the end of this entry: A guy at O’Malley’s called me ‘mate’ for the first time. Almost all the movies, songs and TV shows I’ve seen here are American in origin. Irish people, or at least ones like Michelle anyway, talk much faster than Americans do. With her thick, high-speed Irish accent I had considerable difficulty deciphering her over the blaring music. The Danish girls Mette and Daniela tell me they prefer to sleep nude. One of the guys in their dorm actually complained about this. Aussies like -ie on the end of their words, and words with u’s or oo’s in them are just about always Aboriginal in origin. Just about everyone in the pub was not from Australia. Few people I’ve met are. The Australian media is really in a frenzy about East Timor. But does the American media concern itself with this business?

Protest for East Timor. Too bad I'll have to miss it.

 

 

Near Sydney Opera House

September 7th, 1999 No comments

I woke up at 9 AM today, so I assume my jet lag is cured. After breakfast I walked to Hyde Park. It’s a nice day, but a bit cool and cloudy with a strong wind. Near Hyde Park is St. Mary’s cathedral, which is under heavy repair. In the park itself was a political protest of some kind involving health care for disabled people. There was quite a vocal turnout for such a small interest group. I hadn’t planned to walk much farther, but I kept finding more and more interesting things that led me farther away. From Hyde Park I found the Sydney Tower, a Space Needle-ish tower. It was a great place to take pictures and to get a feeling for the city’s geography, which was still unclear to me. An Australian couple asked me to take their picture up there. From the Sydney Tower I walked up MacQuarie Street past the NSW Parliament building. It seemed the protest in Hyde Park had beaten me there. The crowd was much larger and shouting. It’s a popular place to protest; I found a flyer for an upcoming East Timor rally. Farther north I headed, past the botanical garden to the Sydney Opera House. The architecture is much more impressive in person than seeing it in a photo. The curved shells are very graceful but the enormous cement base is massive, it looks like it could take a nuclear blast. The Harbor Bridge towers to my left. If I look closely I can see tiny human figures climbing the top of it right now. I’m told that particular tour costs A$100, and you have to turn back half way; sounds like a screwy deal to me.

Kings Cross

September 6th, 1999 No comments

I got sick of baking in the sun so I left Bondi and went back to Kings Cross to explore. I also neurotically went back to the hostel to see if my stuff had been rifled through or stolen, and I’m happy to report that my paranoia was unfounded. In fact, not a single thing was stolen from me, or anyone else I met, during the entire journey. I look again for people in the hostel’s common area, but it was deserted. So off I went.

Kings Cross is a peculiar blend of trendy coffee houses and street cafes, video game arcades, and porno palaces — in just about equal ratios. Darlinghurst is the main thoroughfare. On both sides of the street is the core, the red light district, but to me it feels safe, even casually friendly. The hostel is in this part of town and I have no fears. It certainly doesn’t compare to really dangerous places like East St. Louis. Even my initial fear of losing my stuff is fading away. I use ATMs here without a second thought. It looks iffy, but it doesn’t feel iffy. (Though I might feel different if I were a girl and alone here at night.) It’s a strange blend of yuppies, backpackers, bums and hookers. I found a place that rents Internet stations so I logged in and checked my email, which helped ease my sense of solitude. I took a few pictures that I hope illustrate the flavor of Cross.

The Kings Cross concept.

The weather has been superb, like San Diego on a good day. Warm, sunny, no humidity and breezy. I’d tell you the temperature but I haven’t got the feel of Celsius degrees. I generally prefer the clean sensibility of the metric system, and I have no trouble with kilometers and liters, but Celsius eludes me still.